Durban

 The MS Artania docks at the new Nelson Mandela Cruise Terminal in Durban before breakfast. The Terminal is 500 meters from the ocean beachfront, a destination recommended by the local travel agency.  They have warned us to avoid the inner city alone.  Eve and I set out on foot. 

The wide sandy beaches are enticing. The city has invested heavily in developing the beaches as a tourist destination. The paved walkway extends from our end by the harbor over 4 km to the north. Not a lot going on. It is around 10 am on Monday. 

The further north we go, the more developed the strip becomes. We encounter several large hotels and casinos. But still few people. 

We continue to the Moses Mabhida Stadium, built for the World Cup Soccer Games in 2010. According to our info, one can climb up to the top of the arches for a dramatic panorama of Durban; sadly, the entrance is closed. Scaffolding indicates that some repair and maintenance is in progress. 

What now? My map shows a shopping center not too far away, just across the railroad tracks towards downtown. 

I am quickly reminded of the phrase, “coming from the other side of the tracks”.  We cross the tracks and follow a busy street towards the “mall”. The sidewalks are teeming with people, many sitting and talking, others offering things for sale, others shopping. A few entrepreneurs have erected small tents in which a customer is getting a haircut. A particular block appears to be the fruit and vegetable stand section. 

We do come to the shopping mall, but it is unlikely to have what Eve is looking for. (Blond hair spray for touching up her roots?) We continue on. 

We turn in towards the commercial center (and cross the tracks again). The tumult ceases pretty dramatically. We stop at a park near the city hall, before turning back towards the beaches. 

We pass a few banks, car dealers, and other such businesses. Crossing one intersection, a car driver lowers his window and cautions Eve to put her phone into her purse. As we reach the beach strip, a local tourist guide asks if she can help us. We say we are looking for a place to eat. She says we should head south, towards the mall by our ship. But we should not walk along the street. It is safer to walk along the waterfront. 

We follow her advice, and find a spot to stop for pizza and a beer. And then, a walk along the surf as we slowly head back to the ship.

We have covered a good bit of ground today. The disparity between the haves and have nots here is pronounced. As with all of our ports of call on this trip, I hope to be more attentive to news emanating from South Africa in the future. 

Goodbye Durban. Tomorrow is a sea day. Good day to rest!