Carefully Thought Out Details

 

We slept last night with the curtains and door to the balcony open. At daybreak, the lengthening rays of sun crept inexorably over the bed, awakening us from our slumber.  The gentle rolling swoosh of the wake from the ship’s bow, always present, registered itself anew in our consciousness. Time for the morning cup of coffee.

Eve took her first sip, looked contentedly around, and announced that the cabin is perfect. 

Indeed, it is. The Artania underwent a major renovation prior to our boarding. The carpeting, the cabinetry, the deko, everything is fresh and shiny. 

But more than that, we are impressed with the thought put into the layout and function. We have made note of a few things (medicine cabinet mirror design, motion sensor activated night light, grip rail in shower) that we intend to incorporate into our new apartment in Brandenburg. 

We arrive in Mindelo tonight around dinner time. A festive New Year‘s Eve party aboard ship is planned. Tomorrow, a walking tour of Mindelo. 

Happy New Year!

Sea Day

We left Tenerife yesterday after lunch to begin the 870 sea mile cruise to the Cape Verde Islands. Today is a sea day, 250 km off the coast of southern Morocco. We will reach our destination tomorrow evening. 

Our sea day routine is still in development. The skies are sunny with a light haze due to dust blown by the wind from the Sahara. The temperatures, low 20’s, are very comfortable, as long as one avoids the wind. 

On the balcony of our cabin, for example. 

Tenerife

 

We cruised overnight from Lanzarote to Tenerife. Shortly after breakfast we boarded a bus at the harbor in Santa Cruz and drove inland to La Laguna, the historic original capital of the island. Quick city walking tour, then back on the bus to Tacoronte for a photo stop, and then on to a wine cellar.

The Bodega was unassuming from outside. Inside, a long recess was lined with tables and stools for guests arriving in buses to sit as a group and sample the offered wines (red, white, rosé, and dessert) and consume some Tapas. There were enough tables for 4 or 5 busloads of tourists simultaneously. The walls were lined with musty old wine bottles and large dark wine casks.

Eve and I had a very similar experience on the Island of Madeira. Cynically, I imagine these Bodegas to be found in every Spanish/Portuguese tourist city. They are probably all owned by some conglomerate that provides the decor and food. Realistically, they are a part of the tourist experience here. We are thoroughly enjoying it.  

Salúd. 

Lanzarote

 

We berthed shortly after lunch in Recife, Lanzarote, the dryest and most easterly of the Canary Islands. 

Factoid: The islands are so named because of the dogs (canines) that were found here. The birds are named after the islands. 

We boarded a bus for an excursion around the island.  Lanzarote experienced a volcanic eruption that flowed continuously from 1730 to 1736. Much of the island is covered in volcanic ash and rubble. Our first stop was a national park protecting the eruption site. 

Our second stop was a large vineyard. A unique cultivation technique enables grapes to grow, despite the lack of rain. A grape seedling is planted at the bottom of a funnel shaped excavation, 3-4m in diameter. The funnel collects the dew at night, and guides it to the seedlings. The funnel perimeter is extended above the ground by a rock wall, which provides protection for the plants from the prevailing winds. The large land areas so cultivated are an intriguing sight. 

Amazing how creative man can be when it comes to wine. 

Sea Birds

 

Three nights ago, in the English Channel, the Artania was accompanied by a swarm of seagulls at dusk. Presumably feeding off the scraps the ship was disposing of. Yesterday morning, they were back. Same crew of gulls? Or a second shift?  Land was visible about 20 km away. I wonder how far from land seagulls stray?

This morning, with the nearest land over 250 km away, we spotted a lone swallow. He swooped around the waters near the ship, then eventually flew in the direction of Casablanca and disappeared. 

I have been told that the numbers of birds one sees at sea has greatly diminished in the last decades. The early world explorers treated bird sightings as a sign they were approaching land. 

I, too, feel a certain emotional tug from a bird sighting at sea. 

Lisbon

 

The Artania entered the Tejo shortly after breakfast and was fixed in its berth near the center of Lisbon by noon. Eve and I set forth on foot. 

A classic Cook’s tour. We had 6 hours to explore before the ship set sail again. We saw many of the recommended tourist spots (in the company of many other tourists), had a beer near one of the overlooks, and took lots of photos. We expect to make a longer visit to Portugal sometime in the future. Our usual FOMO remained in check. 

The most lasting impression of the day was our ability (and need) to catch up on our social media after 3 days on the ship with no internet connection. I became aware of how often I reflexively reach for the phone to google something my brain no longer knows. 

Perhaps a device-free day should be exercised regularly at home. 

Dressing for Dinner

Christmas Day dawns. Blue skies and sunshine (and Eggs Benedict for breakfast) set the tone for the day. 

As experienced seafarers, Eve and I languidly spend the day hanging around the ship, searching for whales (saw one), reading, doing sport, and taking a sauna. 

At 4 pm we retire to our cabin to get dressed for the Christmas Gala dinner. Suggested apparel: Elegant. 

Eve is wearing a lovely new dress she purchased in Potsdam last week for just such an occasion. I have my tux. 

I feel like we are a couple of characters from an old movie, taking part on a Grand Tour of Europe.  The journey is slow and steady, one chats with fellow passengers, and not much exciting (no murders, no icebergs) happens. Dressing for dinner becomes a highpoint. 

We are prepared. Let the evening begin!

Christmas Eve at Sea

 

Saw the lights of Dover and Calais as we entered the English Channel last night. We are now in the Bay of Biscayne, about 50 km off the coast of France. The weather and seas are steadily improving. Winds are down to a strength of 5. 

It is easy to get turned around on the ship. The day will come when we can walk to our intended station without backtracking or stopping to study the ship‘s floor plan.

Eve and I made ourselves fine for dinner. 

Stormy Seas

Despite a stormy night, we slept well. A bit like sleeping in a rocking cradle, I imagine. Awakened once by the sound of glass tinkling. Nothing was broken however. The Captain reported this morning that we were experiencing steady winds of 8 on the Beaufort scale, with gusts to 9. 

By noon, the seas had calmed some, and the sun shone briefly. Walked 5 laps around the promenade deck. Now it is raining steadily again. 

Expect to pass Dover late tonight at the narrowest point of the English Channel. In clear daylight weather one can see the white cliffs. 

Maybe next time. 

Women and Children First

We boarded ship at 16:00 hours in Hamburg, had a glass of sect, and settled into our cabin. Surprising amount of storage space; every little niche is used. The mandatory lifeboat drill was held at 18:00 hours.  All passengers and crew on board take part. All went smoothly. All routine. Captain Morten Hansen was well pleased with the results. 

We left the pier at 19:00 hours. Shortly before, the captain announced on the intercom that he had bad news: the weather for the North Sea is forecast to be rainy and very windy tonight. Wind strength: 8. We may toss and turn more than expected. 

Eve and I are glad we paid attention during the lifeboat drill. 

Auf Wiedersehen, New Apartment

Day Length Tables - Berlin, Germany

Light Blue - Daylight Hours

Black - Night

We left our home this morning at 7:30 am to catch the train to Bremen. It was cold, rainy, and dark. Today is the shortest day of the year. 

We will return on 2 June, 3 weeks before the summer solstice. 

My mind struggles with the concept that we will return to our new home under such dramatically different solar circumstances. 

A Beautiful Empty Space

Early this morning (about 5 am) I got up and reviewed the contents of the suitcases we had packed. Removed some things, and added some things. Moved our three large suitcases to this spot in the hallway. Made some more adjustments. 

At 1 pm, the baggage service knocked on the door as planned, took the bags to the elevator, then down to his car, and drove off. We will see the suitcases again when we enter our cabin on the ship in Hamburg on Sunday. 

One less concern. I will sleep well tonight. 

Almost Forgot!

 

5 days until we sail. We have been surprisingly relaxed so far. Packing is well under control. The bags will be picked up in two days and brought to the ship. We will take the train to Bremen on Saturday, spend the night there, and take an easy commuter train to Hamburg on Sunday and board the ship. We have been taking leave of family and friends here in Brandenburg. Arrangements for checking on the apartment and the mail are done. Everything is covered. 

Almost everything. Eve informed me first thing this morning that she hardly slept last night. What if the ship goes down? We must check our wills and inform the kids where to find them, in case we don‘t come back. Hmmm. Unwelcome pictures start churning through my mind.